![]() ![]() I suggest using a thin shim between the end of the fingerboard and the hoop to lower the action. The factory always cut the neck angle very well, and every Ode/Baldwin I've ever played has excellent action that needs no adjustment, but action is a personal thing. Bust an essential part, and the banjo's a wall hanger for flowerpots. And none of the parts has been made for the past 30 years. even the lag bolts in the neck are different. Absolutely nothing Gibson works, either, as the Ode stuff is threaded differently. All the parts are brass, and they're much easier to break than the steel Gibson style equivalents. It's the weakest part of the entire banjo's design.įinding any replacement parts for the Ode co-rod system is next to impossible. And everything is cast brass- easy to crack and break. ![]() It was designed to use a big flat bladed screw driver to change the action, but the slot can't be used without removing the tailpiece. The Odes' lower rod has a conical end with a slot that is accessible from the outside edge of the rim. The stuff about messing with the co-rods is true they can be adjusted, but it's not worth the risk. All the early Baldwins and Odes used that size- the last couple of years of production use 5/8 bridges.Ī 5/8 works, but only adds at most 1/16 overall to the action. The D probably had a 9/16 Grover DeLuxe bridge with the bone inserts originally. ![]()
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